PirãoCassava Fish Gravy
Silken Fish-Starch Porridge Born from the Heads and Frames.
Pirão is coastal Brazil's thrift poem: the heads and frames that cooked the broth become the broth's body, thickened with cassava flour into something between gravy and porridge. It is the dish that proves nothing that swims should leave the kitchen uneaten.
Ingredients
- Fish heads and frames from 1 kg fish (or 500 g firm fish scraps)
- 1.5 liters water
- 1 onion, quartered
- 2 tomatoes, chopped
- 1 bell pepper, chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 handful cilantro, stems and leaves
- 150 g fine cassava flour (farinha de mandioca)
- 1 tsp fine sea salt
Method
- Draw the brothSimmer the fish frames with onion, tomatoes, pepper, garlic, and cilantro in the water for 20 minutes. Strain, reserving the broth and any meat picked from the frames.
- Return and seasonReturn the strained broth to the pot with the picked fish and salt. Taste — it should taste like the sea.
- Rain the flourBring to a gentle simmer and sprinkle in the cassava flour with one hand while whisking constantly with the other to prevent lumps.
- Cook to silkStir over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes until thick enough to coat a spoon and glossy. Serve hot as a side to moqueca or grilled fish.
Questions
How long does Pirão take?
About 10 minutes of prep and 25 minutes of cooking — 35 minutes total, yielding 6 portions.
What fish frames make the best pirão?
Heads and bones of firm ocean fish — snapper, grouper, mackerel. They carry the gelatin and flavor that make the porridge silky without extra thickening.
How thick should pirão be?
Thick enough to coat a spoon and hold a trail, still pourable — a side-dish porridge, not a paste. It thickens further as it sits; loosen with hot broth.